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Tuning the XK Engine


Author:

Pat Harmon

Contact E-mail:

pat@patsjags.com


 

Disclaimer: Information contained herein is solely the opinion of the author and is by no means to be interpreted as factory authorized procedures. Use of these procedures is at the full discretion of the reader and the author held harmless from any damage resulting from same. Mention of particular products by name or manufacturer is only for reference and not a solicitation of them.

 

 

Overview

The Jaguar XK engine, designed during the WWII air raids over London, was considerably ahead of its time in 1948 and proved to be one of the most durable and enduring designs of the 20th century. As with any machine, it’s performance is dependent upon condition and tuning. This article is a basic primer on tuning this fabulous engine with tips and lessons-learned not included in the factory Workshop Manual.

The Basics

To properly tune an automobile engine, it’s essential to have a basic understanding how they operate and the various components interrelate. All internal combustion engines operate on the same basic principles: loading a combustion chamber with the correct fuel-air mixture, compressing that mixture and igniting it at the correct time in the cycle so that it develops maximum power for the configuration. The XK engine (as are most automotive engines) is a four-stroke engine meaning that the pistons complete four strokes each cycle, two up and two down. The cycle begins with the piston at the top of its stroke. At this point the intake valve opens and the piston is pulled down (via the connecting rod to the crankshaft) drawing a fuel/air mixture from the carburetor(s) through the intake manifold. At the bottom of the stroke the intake valve closes and the piston travels upwards, compressing the fuel/air mixture. The piston then travels to the top of its stroke (called top dead center) and, the spark plug fires igniting the explosive fuel/air mixture. The exploding gases then force the piston downwards. At the bottom of the stroke the exhaust valve opens and the piston travels upwards expelling the spent mixture through the exhaust valve. At this point, the exhaust valve closes, the intake valve opens and the piston begins the next cycle drawing a new fuel/air mixture into the cylinder. While all this is going on, the distributor (which runs from a geared shaft to the crankshaft) is turning at a rate one-half that of the engine speed acts as a high voltage switch directing current to the spark plugs every other rotation.

Factors Affecting Engine Performance

With these basics in mind, it should be clear to see that a number of factors determine how well an engine runs. A perfectly tuned engine must have all of them correct. In many cases, if one is off, it will affect the others. It’s really not as complicated as it seems.

There are a number of things important to performance that cannot be “tuned.” Typically these are set at manufacture or rebuilding. The engine must be able to adequately compress the fuel/air mixture. If the valves are worn/burned, cylinder/pistons worn then the mixture can leak out of the combustion chamber resulting in less power. The valves are opened and closed in a special sequence by the camshaft which (in the case of the XK engine) is driven by a timing chain from the main crankshaft. The valves opening and closing in relation to the crankshaft and pistons is called “valve timing” and must be correct. We don’t want exhaust valves opening early robbing from the power stroke nor do we want intake valve opening too early (before the piston has reached top dead center (TDC)) or late (after the piston has already started downward creating a vacuum in the cylinder). 

Before an engine can be tuned to maximum performance, it is important that it be in good condition. A simple compression check (pressure gauge screwed into spark plug hole) is a quick way to check all the internals are in-order.

Basic Principles of Tuning

There are seven interrelated functions that all must be set correctly for the engine to run it’s best.

Spark Plug Gap: A simple, but important parameter. Use the manual specified plug and carefully gap to factory settings. Take care that all plugs are set identical. Sparkplugs must be clean and are so inexpensive they should be replaced at each tuning. 

TIP: Use anti-seize compound on steel plugs inserted into aluminum heads.

Valve Clearance: Obviously, the valves must open and close to allow fuel/air to enter and exhaust to exit. How far the valves open and close is determined by the valve clearance. This also affects the valve timing to a certain extent, as a wider clearance will cause the valves to be opening earlier and closing later. For a smooth running engine, valve clearances should be as identical from cylinder to cylinder as much as possible. Otherwise one cylinder will be operating under different conditions than another. The XK engine is an overhead cam engine. From the front, the left side houses the intake camshaft and valve set. The right side houses the exhaust camshaft and valve set. Camshaft lobes ride directly on top of the valves on followers. Special thickness shims are installed under the followers (on top of the valve stems). The valve clearance is adjusted by installing various thickness shims

Point Gap: The distributor is nothing more than a dual function switch. A point contact unit within the distributor rides on a six lobed camshaft, which causes the points to open and close as a follower rides on the camshaft. These points are connected in series with the ignition and the spark coil. When closed the coil is connected directly to the battery. When the points open, the circuit is broken and the magnetic field built-up inside the coil collapses causing a high voltage to be generated in the secondary windings. This high voltage (over 10,000 volts) travels to the center of the distributor cap over a high voltage wire. From there the voltage is directed to one of the sparkplug wires via the rotor. 

Timing: This determines when the spark plugs (in England called “sparking plugs.”) fire in relation to the piston location. Recalling from above, as the piston raises to TDC and compresses the mixture we do not want it ignited to early or the exploding gasses will act against the upcoming piston. Also, we don’t want it firing too late, as the full power from the combustion will not be achieved. Typically, it takes a bit of time for the mixture to ignite and build to full force so the timing is set to actually ignite the gas before the piston comes to TDC. Rotating the distributor in relation to the block (and thus the crankshaft) controls timing. Typical timing settings are 5 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). If the ignition occurs too early the engine will “ping” or “knock.” If you think about it, grade of fuel is important as higher octane will burn quicker, with more force and require less timing advance than lower octane. XK distributors have a micrometer adjustment on the side of the distributor to adjust the timing for different grades of gasoline. This was more important in 1948 than it is now since most gasoline is standardized and quality controlled.

Inside the distributor cap are six contacts – one for each spark plug and a rotor riding on top of the camshaft. This camshaft rotates once per every two engine revolutions and directs the high voltage from the rotor to the appropriate spark plug contact and then onto the sparkplug. By rotating the distributor you can see how the timing of the spark voltage to the spark plug can be changed. Timing can be measured statically (engine not running) by using a light bulb or ohmmeter to measure when the points are just opening. It can also be measured with a timing light, which fires upon high voltage sent to either the #1 (rear of engine) or #6 (front of engine) spark plugs.

Idle Speed: To facilitate acceleration/deceleration there are two controls, which vary the timing from its basic setting. One control (vacuum advance) varies the timing depending on intake manifold vacuum. At full acceleration, the carburetors are open, the vacuum is low, and the advance unit does nothing. When the vacuum is high; however, the advance unit advances the timing. These are installed mainly for fuel economy. More important to tuning is the second advance control or centrifugal advance. Inside the distributor there are weights, counteracted by springs, which advance the timing more the faster they spin. On an XK engine, this control begins affecting the timing over 500 rpm. It’s thus important that the engine be at 500 rpm while being tuned at idle.

Carburetor Synchronization: Most XK engines have twin SU carburetors with the ‘S’ models having three. For optimal performance, these carburetors must be synchronized so each does an equal part. They are designed so, at idle speed, the throttle plates are fully closed and incoming air is adjusted with idle/air adjusting screws (near the rear of the unit). At idle, the engine speed is controlled with these screws and each is to be adjusted so the carburetors are drawing equal amounts of air. Once the engine is accelerated above idle, the pistons rise within the suction chamber this raising the tapered needle in the jet seat allowing more fuel to flow into the unit.

Fuel/Air Mixture: This is set at the carburetor. As air is drawn through the carburetor venturi, a vacuum is created which draws gasoline past an adjustable jet. When the mixture has too much fuel per unit of air it is said to be “rich.” When there is not enough fuel it is said to be “lean.” In XK engines the jet opening is controlled by a tapered needle which fits into the jet opening. Raising or lowering the jet in relation to the needle controls the idle mixture. Lowering will cause a larger gap or opening and thus make the mixture richer. Raising the piston/needle combination a bit thus making the engine run lean checks the mixture. If the engine has been set to rich this will temporarily correct the mixture and the engine will speed up a tad. If the engine was running to lean then this operation will make the situation worse and the engine will slow down.

Relationship of Tuning Elements

Understanding the above, the setting of one element will affect the other. Any change in one requires the rest to be reset for the engine to be in-tune. For example, an engine that has its fuel/air mixture set too rich can be compensated by changing the timing but at the detriment of overall performance. The best way to approach the tuning is to first adjust elements in the following order:

1.      Spark Plugs

2.      Valve Clearances 

3.      Point Gap

4.      Timing 

5.      Idle Speed/Synchronization

6.      Fuel/Air Mixture

Remember, these elements are interrelated. The first three are mandatory factory settings and need to be set first. Timing should be set to factory specifications first. After initial tuning, you may want to try advancing/retarding in small increments to optimize performance. Bear in mind that, both idle speed and fuel/air mixture will have to be readjusted each time the timing is changed – all three are interrelated. 

Tuning Procedure

Preparation. Clean the engine. It’s much more enjoyable to work on a clean engine than on a dirty one. Additionally parts/surfaces are less apt to become contaminated with dirt.

Purchase Materials: Spark plugs, anti-seize compound (Permatex), Cam cover gaskets, Ignition Points and condenser, gasket sealer (I prefer silicone), automatic transmission fluid (you’ll have to read on to find out what this has to do with engine tuning).

Tools Required: Timing light or ohmmeter, blade type feeler gauge (for valves), wire type feeler gauge (spark plugs), screwdrivers, socket wrenches, micrometer (conventional), carburetor synchronization device (Unisyn or rubber tubing), carburetor synchronization kit (tubes with indicator wires inserted in the pistons).

1.      Gap Sparkplugs.
 
Refer to your owner’s manual. Most XK engines use Champion N5 sparkplugs gapped at 0.025 inches. Consensus among most XK owners is not to vary from this brand/type of sparkplug. It’s best to use a wire type gauge rather than a blade type, the reason being that the blade must be perfectly perpendicular to the plug for a correct reading – not so with the wire type.  
 
NOTE: Do not replace the sparkplugs at this time if you plan to check valve clearances in the next step. Also see Item 3 following. If you plan to statically time the engine you will want to leave the plugs out of the engine at this point as you’ll be turning the engine over by hand.  
 
Lightly coat the plug threads with anti-seize compound and install the plugs hand tight with a socket wrench. Remember, you are screwing into aluminum!
 

2.      Check Valve Clearances.
 
a. Loosen the cam cover nuts a bit at a time (to avoid warpage) and remove the cam covers.
 
b. Observe the intake (near carburetors) and exhaust camshafts and how the lobes ride on top of the valve guide.
 
c. Check ignition switch off and, using the starter override button on the rear of the starter solenoid, rotate the engine until one of the lobes is pointing directly away from it’s valve guide. Use a blade type feeler gauge and check the clearance between the camshaft and the follower. Check owner’s manual or data plate for the correct clearances.
 
d. Continue to rotate the engine and measure until all valves have been checked.
 
e. Clean the cam cover gasket surfaces as well as the gasket surfaces on the head. Verify the ‘O’ ring seal is in-place at the rear of the exhaust cam cover (engines equipped with mechanical tachometers).

TIP: If you have not used a feeler gauge before, make your measurement so that you just feel a resistance between the parts. Do not try to force the gauge between the parts nor accept a reading that’s too loose. 

TIP: With a sharpie marker, number each valve on the head starting with #1 at the rear. Record each reading that you take and log it onto a sheet of paper. While you are checking one valve, you will find another that is also in a measurement position. Why not measure both. Also, since you’ve gone to all this trouble, why not make the measurement a second time.

It’s very important that the valves be (1) set correctly and, (2) be set equally so each cylinder is firing under the same set of conditions. It’s kind of like trying to run with one leg six inches shorter than the other….Setting the valve clearances is a difficult and time-consuming procedure and too lengthy to include here. Unlike American cars with adjusting nuts on rocker arms, the Jaguars have special round shims, which fit underneath the valve guide between it and the top of the valve stem. The thicker the shim, the less valve clearance. The process involves removing the camshafts, collecting an assortment of shims (they are numbered A through Z.) and then replacing the shims with the correct thickness based on measurements taken. Refer to your workshop manual and follow the instructions EXACTLY AS PRINTED.

f. Put a thin coating of silicone gasket sealer on first, the cam cover and then, on the gasket after in-place on the cam cover. Form a bead of sealer in the rear of the exhaust cam cover to prevent leaks around the tachometer sender (where applicable).
 
g. Replace both cam covers being careful to tighten the nuts in sequence to the correct torque to prevent warpage.
 

3.      Point Gap.
 
a. Check ignition switch off. 
 
b. Remove the distributor cap. 
 
c. Grab the rotor with your and turn it left and right. It should move with some resistance indicating the mechanical advance mechanism is working. 
 
d. Remove the rotor and place several drops of oil in the center of the distributor camshaft. This lubricates the advance mechanism. Inspect the brass contact piece and polish/clean. If it’s badly burned consider replacing it.
 
e. Depress the starter override button on the rear of the starter solenoid switch (mounted next to the fuse panel on most XKs) momentarily until the distributor point follower (which rides on the camshaft) is EXACTLY on top of one of the lobes. Measure the point gap and set to 0.014 – 0.016 inch. Adjust by loosening the setscrew and inserting a screwdriver in the adjusting slot. Tighten the adjusting screw.
 
f. Replace the rotor (don’t ask how many times I’ve forgotten to do this!)
 
g. Inspect and clean the inside of the distributor cap. Look for carbon tracks indicative of cracks in the plastic.
 
h. Replace the distributor cap.

TIP: Many owners replace the contact point set with what is called “breakerless” ignition sets. Pertroniks is one such manufacturer. You will need to know the specific distributor number, which is stamped on the aluminum body on the back side (of course) facing the engine. Once installed, the point setting variable is removed from the tuning equation.
 

4.      Ignition Timing.
 
a. Locate the timing mark on the harmonic balance wheel (on the front of the crankshaft behind the pulley). There will either be a series of timing marks or a single mark at zero degrees TDC. Check the timing specification in the owner’s manual. Typically the timing is set at 5 degrees BTDC. If your balance wheel does not have timing marks, 5 degrees is ½ inch before the mark in the direction of engine rotation. Mark this spot with a dop of white paint.
 
b. Locate the tightening bracket at the base of the distributor and set up your socket wrench (or select a box end) that will fit the adjusting bolt.
 
c. Timing can be done either statically or dynamically with a timing light.

d. To time statically: Connect an ohmmeter between a ground point and the coil terminal connected to the distributor. Rotate the engine until the timing marker is exactly adjacent to the 5-degree timing mark. Remove the distributor cap and observe the points follower in relation to the camshaft. If the engine is correctly timed, the points should be just opening. Loosen the distributor mounting clamp and rotate the distributor clockwise until the ohmmeter reads zero resistance. This means the points are now closed. Watching the meter, slowing rotate the distributor counterclockwise until it changes from zero to maximum resistance. Tighten the distributor bracket being careful not to disturb the setting. Replace the distributor cap.
 
e. To time dynamically: Start the engine and run to normal operating temperature. 
 
VERY IMPORTANT: Remove and plug the vacuum advance line and verify the engine is running at 500 rpm. Any faster and the mechanical advance will be engaging thus changing the timing (see Item 5, below, to correct the idle speed). 
 
Connect the timing light to the power source and connect the high-tension lead to either #1 (at rear of engine) or #6 (at front of engine) spark plug. From under the car, flash the light on the harmonic balance wheel. Loosen the distributor clamping bold and adjust the distributor to the correct timing point (the white paint dop). Carefully tighten the clamping bolt without disturbing the setting. Recheck the timing with the light to verify. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose.

TIP: After timing the engine, have some one accelerate the engine while observing the timing mark with the light. The timing should advance as the engine is accelerating. This tells you the mechanical advance is functioning. My car had sat in storage for 12 years before I purchased it. Good thing I checked this as the entire advance mechanism was rusted tight!
 

5.      Idle Speed and Carburetor Synchronization: (adjust when engine is at normal operating temperature)
 
a. Check the engine off
 
b. Remove the air cleaner(s) 
 
c. Remove the dampers from the top of each carburetor
 
d. With your finger, raise each piston and release. Verify it lowers without any interference (this checks to see if the needle is properly centered in the jet. If it is not, refer to the workshop manual.
 
e. Loosen the coupling between the carburetors. Open the throttles on each carburetor, one at a time, and verify the spring returns each to a fully closed position. Tighten the coupling. 
 
f. Start the engine and run to operating temperature.
 
g. Adjust the idle/air screws until both carburetors are drawing equal amounts of air (either with the Unisyn tool or a rubber hose between your ear and the carburetor opening listing for equal sucking sound) and idle speed of 500 rpm. As above, any faster idle with cause advance timing, which will affect the setting adjustment.
 
h. Raise each piston (one at a time) approximately 1/16th of an inch using either a narrow screwdriver or the small lifting pin on the side of the carburetor body. If the engine speed increases, the mixture of either or both carburetors is too rich. If the speed decreases, the mixture is too lean. Adjust the mixture via the adjusting screws near the left front of the carburetor. Typically, I adjust the carburetor I’m measuring at the time. This is a “narrowing down” process and you will need to go back and forth between carburetors several times until the mixture is exactly right. Also, please note that any changes in the mixture will most-likely affect the idle speed. Be sure to keep it at 500 rpm.
 
i. Finally, check the overall operation and linkage by accelerating the engine and observing both pistons rise equally throughout. Kits may be purchased with aluminum rods that fit into the tops of each piston and indicator wires to observe the piston movement.
 
j. Top the damper chambers with oil and replace the dampers.

TIP: The oil dampers prevent the pistons from bouncing due to car motion. Do not use multi weight oil in them. The preferred lubricant is automatic transmission fluid.

k. Replace the air cleaner